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The Art of Indigo: BUAISOU

It all started in Tokushima, Japan …

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

Japanese indigo has become quite the obsession in menswear circles lately. It’s an especially popular hue for denim & chambray shirting, and selvedge snobs will go to unreasonable extremes to procure an authentic pair of indigo-dyed, Japanese denim. As part of our Spring Style Issue, we wanted to delve deeper into the history and mythos of indigo. Luckily for us, we discovered a remarkable brand named BUAISOU that fully embodies the storied tradition of this ancient dye.

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

The origins of BUAISOU and Japanese Indigo date all the way back to the Edo period of Japan’s history (1603-1868). Back then, it was a thriving industry with over 1800 indigo farms growing the “sukumo” leaves used to make the all-natural dye. Presently, that number has dwindled drastically to only 5 families. Three of the founding BUAISOU members apprenticed for many years under a sixth generation indigo farmer from one of these remaining families. The priceless knowledge and time-honored traditions he studied led to the launch of the BUAISOU farm in 2012.

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

Based in Tokushima, BUAISOU is a completely vertically-integrated entity, consisting of a farm in Japan and a Brooklyn location. The original founders were Kenta Watanabe and Kakuo Kaji. Two other skilled artisans, Ken Yuki and Yuya Miura were added to the team, and together with Sayaka Toyama (the principal of their Brooklyn outpost), they make a truly formidable ensemble of indigo connoisseurs.

So how exactly are the sukumo leaves transformed into indigo dye? Here is a simplified version of the centuries-old process. After the leaves are harvested, they are prepped for a 120-day period that involves mixing and stirring with pure water. The next stage consists of a traditional method of fermentation, which involves ash lye, wheat bran and calcium hydroxide. These agents increase the pH of the dyeing solution and create what is known as a “hell vat.” See a video of the process below:

https://vimeo.com/124047113

We visited the BUAISOU Brooklyn workshop to witness the dyeing procedure for ourselves. Original BUAISOU founding member, Ken Yuki happened to be in town, and the dedication and concentration he infuses into his craft is simply spellbinding.

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

It was amazing to hear about the temperamental and delicate nature of the indigo vat. It has to be treated with the utmost care and monitored daily. According to Sayaka, “The vat has to be kept above 68ºF at all times, and it needs to be stirred every day.” Also, a seasoned dyer knows just how much dyeing can be done each day. Too much or too little will affect the viability of the vat and alter the color quality of the finished product.

“The vat has to be kept above 68ºF at all times, and it needs to be stirred every day.”

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

The moment of truth came when master dyer Ken Yuki dipped a piece of white cloth into the vat. He massaged and kneaded it in the blue solution, and when the fabric finally emerged, it was a vibrant green color. And then right before our eyes, the color changed to the rich “Japan Blue” indigo, due to oxidation in the air.

[slideshow_deploy id=’1796′]

 

To get the authentic BUAISOU indigo dye treatment, you have to bring your products to them. They don’t entrust their precious sukumo leaves to any outside parties. To date, they have done collaborations with respected brands like The Hillside, Kaptain Sunshine and Naluto Trunks & Co. BUAISOU also makes an impressive array of in-house indigo products including bandanas, pouches, phone cases, bracelets and more.

BUAISOU Brooklyn Japanese Indigo dye for ONS Clothing

It’s worth mentioning that most of the mass production companies who claim to use indigo dye are actually using the cheap synthetic stuff. Synthetic indigo dyes are much cheaper and more likely to color migrate when washed with other garments. With all-natural indigo, you won’t experience any color migration, and the traditional method has been known to make fabrics repellent to nasty odors and bugs.

Perhaps the most telling exchange of our entire BUAISOU experience occurred as we were making our exit. After being completed astounded by the history and artistry of Japanese indigo, we asked the apprentice-turned-master, Ken Yuki how long it takes to become a seasoned indigo dye aficionado. After mulling the question for several seconds, he softly replied, “You keep on learning and mastering this for life.”


For more information on BUAISOU or to experience one of their Brooklyn workshops, visit: www.Buaisou-I.com

If you liked this story, check out more in our Urban Transplants issue.

 


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