Sartorial Distinction: J. Mueser Bespoke
There are three things every man should aspire to own: a classic, well-constructed navy blazer, a pair of durable (expensive) wingtips and perhaps most importantly, an elegant, bespoke suit.
For the finest hand-tailored suits, we suggest you head to Christopher Street in the West Village and knock on the door of J. Mueser Bespoke, one of the most reputable menswear tailoring shops in NYC. J. Mueser suits are made with fabrics from the best mills in England & Italy, and they combine a distinguishing modern flair along with an old-world approach to sartorial tailoring. For our Spring Style issue, we sat down with the store’s founder Jake Mueser and his impeccably dressed manager, Jonas Sundstrom, to learn more about their exceptional shop and growing roster of A-list clientele.
First off, can you tell us a little bit about J. Mueser and the full range of menswear tailoring services you offer?
We offer a seasonal ready-to-wear collection consisting of jackets, sport coats, outerwear and accessories. Our next level is a made-to-measure service, this is a fully customizable, clean, Italian inspired suit. The highest level and what I am most known for is our bespoke bench made suiting. This follows the Savile Row principles of bespoke.
Where did you receive your menswear training and who were some of your design inspirations coming up?
I attended FIT and studied menswear and tailoring. I was very influenced by sub-cultures and musicians like Paul Weller, Nick Cave and Serge Gainsbourg.
There are a lot of different definitions floating around, but what is the main difference between Made-to-Measure and Bespoke?
The key difference is that for a bespoke suit each pattern is hand-cut, and there is approximately 40 hours of handwork that goes into each suit. For made to measure the process is streamlined, they are still beautiful hand made suits but not the work of individual master tailors.
The suits, shirts and outerwear you make have a unique and distinct flair – what would you say is the J. Mueser signature style?
A mix between traditional Savile Row and Neapolitan styles. The nipped in waist and tailored trousers of an English suit with the soft deconstructed shoulders and high gorge line of the Neapolitan suit.
Your classy West Village shop is rife with books of exquisite, high quality fabric swatches. What are some of the esteemed mills you source your fabrics from?
Some of our favorite mills are Dormeuil and Holland and Sherry, but all of our fabrics are sourced from the oldest and best English and Italian mills.
“All of our fabrics are sourced from the oldest and best English and Italian mills.”
For the guys out there who might be a little intimidated or indecisive, why is it worth investing in at least one tailored suit?
It can feel daunting to embark on the creation of a custom or bespoke suit, but it makes a world of difference in the end. I have clients who have literally transformed their shape and silhouette, through proper fit and tailoring.
One of your regular clients is Justin O’Shea, the expertly dressed buyer for My Theresa – what are some other visible clients that have come to you for your tailoring expertise?
Aside from working with some heavy hitters in the finance world I have also worked some really great creatives like Justin O’Shea, Waris Ahluwalia, and Sean Lennon, Lea DeLaria and Aziz Ansari.
How does attending menswear shows (Pitti) and other trade/fashion shows inform and inspire your craft?
It’s great to see what other tailors and designers are working on and it’s always good to see the latest and best fabrics.
In the realm of men’s sartorial dressing, what cities in the world do you think have the best-dressed men?
This is a tough one. NY has some very well-dressed gentlemen (I of course contribute to these guys). My tops would be Milan, London and Paris.
Apart from suits and shirting, what other separates and menswear accessories do you offer?
I do a wide range of accessories from gloves, umbrellas, ties, and pocket squares to knitwear, slippers and raincoats.
You’ve come a long way with your brand in a short amount of years, what do you envision as the continuing evolution of J. Mueser?
My goal is to continue making some of the highest quality clothing available in NYC and to evolve the craft and continue employing and collaborating with amazing craftsmen from around the world.
For your own bespoke suit, be sure to visit J. Mueser at 19 Christopher Street, NYC.
If you liked this story, check out more in our Urban Transplants issue.
