Raising The Bar: Jeremy Oertel
When you first step into the cocktail bar, Donna in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, you are instantly met with an inviting and authentic vibe. There are no pretensions or vapid hipster posturing; it’s just a cool spot to hangout and enjoy great drinks. After you get settled in and savor that first sip of your expertly concocted cocktail, it’s quite clear that you’ve just stumbled onto your new favorite NYC bar. The brain behind Donna’s exceptional cocktail menu is bartender extraordinaire, Jeremy Oertel. Over the years, he’s worked at top Manhattan spots like Mayahuel and Death + Company, and he also oversees a cocktail consulting company that advises some of the best hospitality establishments in NYC.
Jeremy will be the esteemed host at our Soho flagship on October 13th for the launch of the Fords Gin X Onassis capsule. We visited him in Brooklyn to learn more about his career to date and his ascendance to cocktail royalty.
When did you first start bartending?
I first started bartending when in 2004. I started as a busboy then worked my way up to bartender in a few months. It seemed like the best position to have, it felt like you had more control behind the bar. Also, I wanted to know how to do everything in the restaurant.
So please educate us, what’s the difference between a bartender and a mixologist?
That’s a tough one. Most “mixologists” hate being called that. It sounds pretentious and there is a negative connotation to it which is gradually wearing off. I think the main difference is cocktail development. I feel like the term “mixologist” refers to someone who is creating new cocktails.
You’ve worked at quite a few different hotspots in NYC – can you name a few of these places?
I got my start at The Cornershop Café which is now Bleecker Street Kitchen. Here’s where I was first exposed to “real” cocktails. After the place closed, I wanted to continue making quality cocktails so I became a barback at Dram when it first opened to learn more and eventually earned a few bartending shifts. I met Phil Ward while working at Dram and he offered me a position at Mayahuel, where I worked for three and a half years. While I was working there, I was offered the bar management job at Donna, where I still currently oversee the beverage program. I’ve also been working a couple shifts a week at Death & Co. for the past year.
Tell us some more about your Brooklyn spot, Donna – what’s the signature drink there?
It’s a really beautiful place. We try to keep it really casual and fun, but still want to serve extremely high quality cocktails, using the best possible ingredients. We have delicious food, an interesting beer and wine list and an extensive spirits selection. We want people to feel like they’re on vacation when they walk through the door. The signature drink is the Brancolada. It’s a take on a Pina Colada with Branca Menta as the base spirit. We have it in a slushy machine now and people come all the time just to have this one cocktail. It’s definitely the drink that people think of when they think of Donna.
You use Fords Gin a lot at Donna. Does it have a unique flavor profile than other gins you’ve worked with?
It’s a very versatile gin. Fords has a very rich full mouth feel and a delicate floral finish. I love that it’s juniper-forward and strong enough to work in stirred drinks like a Negroni, but then can also pair well with the citrus in a shaken cocktail like a Gimlet. Its great texture also makes a fantastic martini.
Speaking about NYC, what are some under-the-radar places that you can get the best cocktails at reasonable prices?
A great new place called Stop Time just opened up near me in Bedstuy. They don’t have a full liquor license yet but make great cocktails with fortified wines and vermouths. I used to go to Dear Bushwick a lot when I lived out there. They have a really great list and excellent food. Another favorite of mine is Featherweight in East Williamsburg. The place has a great vibe and some of the best bartenders in the city work shifts there. The Tiki Tuesday party at Featherweight is also a great time.
Conversely, what are some upscale places in NYC with the best cocktails that roll out the red carpet and charge you an arm and a leg?
The Nomad for sure. It’s where I go to spoil myself. They always take great care of me and the drinks and food are fantastic. My wife is addicted to the Seafood Tower. Death & Co. is still one of my favorites. It was always one of my favorite places to get a cocktail and it was such an honor to be able to work there this past year. Something about getting a drink in that dark, candlelit room just always feels special and unique.
We are pleased to be having you host our Fords Gin x Onassis event on October 13th – you even made a signature drink for the evening. Please tell us more about it.
We’re coming into fall so I’ve been thinking a lot about fall flavors lately while designing new cocktails. This is a good transition drink because it still has some summer flavors. It makes me think of those days at the end of September and beginning of October where it still feels like summer during the day, but the evenings are crisp and you have to wear a sweatshirt or jacket. The drink has Fords Gin obviously, Dolin Genepy, which is an herbal liqueur made in the French Alps, lemon and Granny Smith Apple Juice, a little ginger and Dandelion Burdock Bitters. (Shot of the cocktail below)
Changing lanes, your lovely wife happens to be a bartender too. Did you meet on the job?
We did actually. We both worked at Cornershop together. It was a really special place. We’re still close with most of the people we met there and actually had our wedding reception at the restaurant.
You actually own a consulting company with her. Can you tell us what your company does and some of your recent projects?
It’s called You and Me Cocktails. We focus on bar design, cocktail creation, and staff training mainly. We continually work on the Soho Grand and Tribeca Grand (now the Roxy Hotel) Hotels. At the hotels, we create the cocktails for all of the bars including the outdoor space, Gilligan’s, and Paul’s Baby Grand. We’re currently also working on a project in Hudson, NY called the Rivertown Lodge, which should be opening any day now.
Lastly, if you were asked to name your favorite cocktail of all time, what would be the hands-down winner?
Probably a Manhattan. The first time I had a well made one was a very eye opening experience for me. It completely changed the way I thought about cocktails. Its also one of my favorite drinks to make for people, especially if they’ve never had a really good one.
For more info about Jeremy’s Brooklyn cocktail joint Donna, visit www.donnabklyn.com
Shop the Onassis X Fords Gin capsule collection below:
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