Savory Progressions: Chef Thomas Chen

It’s rare to open a restaurant in NYC and become a thriving, successful establishment within the first few years. The competition in Gotham is fierce, and there are attention-hogging, celebrity chefs lurking behind every kitchen cutting board. But even in this unpredictable culinary ecosystem, Thomas Chen, the skilled chef at new Asian fusion darling, Tuome is riding high. After going to school for Accounting, he made a bold move to alter course and pursue his cooking aspirations. He gained priceless experience at revered restaurants like Jean-Georges and Eleven Madison Park, and that led to him opening Tuome (pronounced tu-oh-mee) in NYC’s East Village in 2014. The praise and accolades for his inventive dishes keep rolling in, and as you’ll see from the interview below, he takes his craft very seriously. Read on …

First of all, talk to us about your career transition from accounting to the culinary arts. Was it a difficult one to make?

The transition wasn’t difficult at all. I always knew I wanted to cook for a living but I chose to major in accounting in college. It was the less risky choice. I’m surprised I lasted as long as I did working as an accountant. When I finally had enough, I was just relieved to make the switch.

How did you first get interested in food in the first place? Are there any early childhood food experiences that really stand out in your mind?

I cooked dinner for my family growing up. My parents worked long hours and I was responsible for getting dinner on the table even at a young age for my siblings. My earliest memory of cooking was standing on a chair to reach the stove and making a Chinese classic – stir-fried eggs and tomatoes.

One of the restaurants you worked for is the highly respected Eleven Madison Park. What were the important things you learned there about being a successful chef?

Aside from learning about flavor profiles and developing my knife and cooking skills, I learned to pay attention to the kitchen and to service as a whole. Working in the kitchen is similar to playing a team sport.

Now on to Tuome – when did you first have the idea start your own restaurant and when did it actually open?

Tuome opened in August 2014. I’ve wanted to open a restaurant ever since enrolling in culinary school.

We have heard a lot about the delicious “Pig Out” entree at Tuome – please explain why this is such a crowd pleaser?

The Pig Out entree is a dish for two. It’s fun and interactive. You can eat the pork with your hands or use chopsticks. The noodles are saucy, the pork itself is soft and the skin is crispy. It incorporates different types of textures and has sweet, salty, creamy and acidic elements.

The Deviled Egg appetizer is also another favorite. What have you done to elevate this into such a sought after treat?

The egg white is breaded and fried. The yolk mixture is topped with a garlic chili for an additional kick.

You’ve received great reviews from respected names like the New York Times and Zagat. What do you think is the Tuome difference that attracts these accolades?

I’m in the kitchen every day the restaurant is open. I’m checking to make sure the food is consistent and flowing at a good pace for each diner. With so many restaurants in NY, it only takes one bad experience for guests to be turned off and search for the next dining destination.

Tell us a little bit about your off-duty wardrobe. How would you describe your dressing style when you’re not working at your restaurant?

My usual off-duty wardrobe is t-shirt, jeans and a watch. Always have to wear a watch. (Editor’s Note: Thomas wore a very elegant Panerai watch to the shoot.)